Wednesday 13 October 2021

Lord of the Aisles

A wedding on the beautiful Isle of Canna. 

There are many perks to being a Humanist Celebrant. One is the opportunity to work with lots of brilliant couples from all different backgrounds and be part of their big day. Another is being invited to conduct ceremonies in venues and areas of Scotland that I might otherwise overlook, or in this case, travel to an island that I might not otherwise think of going to.

I was contacted away back at the beginning of 2020 by Steve who was looking to get married to Maria somewhere in the Highlands. After some deliberation, mainly centred around hotel unavailability the couple settled on Canna.

My first thought was "sounds brilliant, I've never got round to visiting any of the Islands". I then remembered I'd been to Arran for a (fantastic) ceremony but otherwise I haven't even been to Millport. (In any case, given that you can see Arran from Ardrossan, while a great place to visit it arguably doesn't have the same mystique as say, the Hebrides.)

My second thought was "actually, before I agree to this, precisely where the #### is Canna?" so I went straight to google maps (I have a Huawei phone that predates the US Govt ban thank goodness, otherwise the app is called "Petal". No me neither.). Then to Caledonian MacBrayne ferries - other ferry operators are apparently available but good luck with that.

My third thought was "looks amazing, and didn't my ancestors (Vikings) rule that area? It'll be like coming home" - see the end of this post for more info.

Sadly, Steve and Maria then had to cancel due to Covid, but you can imagine my delight when they revisited their plans earlier this year when restrictions started easing.

After some discussion with Maria, we worked out the logistics for the ceremony. This is when I discovered that to travel out on the Wednesday ferry meant that I was there until Friday, as there was no ferries on the Thursday. However Maria was undaunted and said she would take care of all the accommodation on the island, so we were all set!

Eagle-eyed viewers who take the time to look at the Canna Ferry Timetable will spot that there is a ferry on the Monday. I wasn't able to take this due to having a wedding ceremony that day near Lochgilphead, which deserves a blog all of its own! 

Instead of "planes, trains and automobiles", this journey was more "cars, ferries and shanks' pony". 

After I had finished in Lochgilphead, it was off to Mallaig via Oban. The weather on the Monday and Tuesday was fab, so of course when I got on the Canna ferry on the Wednesday morning it was overcast and dull.

The ferry goes by the name of the MV Loch Nevis and it takes around two and a half hours to get to Canna. 



Your Celebrant looking windswept and interesting as he leaves Mallaig on the MV Loch Nevis.

It stops at Rum as well. I kept my eyes out for any Sea Eagles but it wasn't to be. 


Heading into Rum.


Arriving at Canna.

When you get off the ferry, you are met by the lovely Fiona who runs Tighard Guest House. If you fancy a stay there, here's the link:

https://www.tighard.scot/

Fiona basically runs the entire house herself, and one of her many talents is making breakfast, as you can see from the pic below.

A gratuitous full breakfast shot.

So, to the ceremony itself.

As previously mentioned, the weather had been great, right up till the day of the ceremony. Those of you who have ever planned a ceremony in Scotland will be familiar with this feeling. This is why we invented a) warm clothing b) indoors with heating and c) aeroplanes that can whisk us off to sunnier climes.

However, as a great man once said, there's no such thing as bad weather, there's just the wrong clothes. I would also argue that there's no place like Scotland in the mist, and there's no place like an island off the coast of Scotland in the mist. 

Silver sands.

As you can see, the beach on Canna that Steve and Maria chose for the ceremony looks amazing anyway.


Steve and Maria




Jumping the broom.

Steve hails from a Romany background, and one of their very old marriage traditions is to "jump the broom", which signifies the journey from single to married life.



Sprinkling alcohol.

Maria is from the Greek island of Rhodes, and she choose an ancient Greek tradition where alcohol is sprinkled on the marriage altar. As the island itself was our altar that day, she sprinkled some fine Talisker Whisky (which also happens to be the closest distillery), while reciting from the play Antigone.


Just, because...

After the ceremony, we headed back to the Cafe Canna (https://www.cafecanna.co.uk/) for a celebratory dinner. Despite the remote location, The Cafe Canna has a well deserved reputation for culinary excellence and many a passing yacht anchors in the bay while hungry sailors row ashore. Advance booking is highly recommended and you can even use your VHF radio (Channel 8 by the way) on your boat to make a booking. 

The Cafe Canna.

If the Cafe needs a delivery, the local fisherman just drops off his catch outside.




A seafood platter. Yes it tasted as good as it looks.

Unfortunately the weather on the Thursday took a turn for the worse, but that didn't stop us spending the day drinking heavily exploring the island. After a bracing walk in the wind and the rain, you're more than ready for your next visit to the Cafe Canna. I wanted to see the local Puffin colony, but it was just too far, so here's a pic of an Oystercatcher instead.


The island itself is just as you would expect, i.e. ruggedly awesomely beautiful. These next pics give you an idea, but they don't really do the place justice. 












The only thing missing was the Sea Eagles. There's a few on the island, but sadly they didn't put in an appearance.

It almost goes without saying, that on Friday morning the sun came out and the island was transformed.

The view from Tighard Guest House.

In the distance is the Isle of Rum, which had been hidden by clouds the entire time. It loomed out of the mist like a scene from "The Land that Time Forgot", but without the dinosaurs. 

Of course, all good things must come to an end and it was time to head back down to the jetty to get the ferry back to civilisation the mainland. The ever helpful Fiona offered to take our bags down in her car (one of the only vehicles allowed on the island) while we had a last stroll.

Farewell Canna.

So there you have it. A mini adventure, which included a trip up the West Coast, two ferry journeys, a successfully married couple and a world class seafood platter, and all without leaving Scotland. We really do have some amazing places practically on our doorstep and it's given me the notion to visit some more islands. Islay next I think, which segues nicely into this last part.

This post ends with a short family history lesson, or else the amazingly witty pun in the post title might sadly pass you by, and we don't want that. 

Or even worse, you might think it's something to do with a supermarket.

My surname McSorley is the anglicised form of the Gaelic Mac Somhairle, i.e. son of Somhairle or in English Somerled. More detailed info on Somerled can be found on wiki:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somerled

That article shows that Somerled was effectively the first "Lord of the Isles" and as one of his descendants, I get to use this title that he fought so hard for in order to create brilliant puns for your amusement. 

On whether the great man himself was authorised to conduct legal weddings the annals are sadly silent.

Slainte!

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